Travel Guide: Two Days in Cologne, Germany.

If you’re looking for a weekend destination that seamlessly blends history, culture, and modernity, look no further than Cologne, Germany.

Before travelling to Cologne for the first time, I had heard very mixed reviews – some told me it was ‘boring’, ‘ugly’, ‘dull’, while others told me it was ‘an absolute vibe’.

But after having the pleasure of wandering its beautiful streets last summer, I can confirm I completely fell in love with it, and I’m excited to share my two-day guide to help you fall in love with it, too!

From stunning architectural marvels to fun culinary experiences, Cologne has something for everyone.

90% of the city was bombed in WW2, so very few historic buildings are left in the city, and those that are standing were often re-built after the war.

The architecture is fascinating as there’s such a juxtaposition between those old buildings, and the 1950s-1960s brutalist style of buildings.

Now, I am biased because my great-grandfather’s family were from Cologne, and the nearby town of Krefeld is actually where my surname ‘Lux’, is from.

But I promise Cologne is worth visiting! (even if I did look at it from slightly rose-tinted glasses)

Just don’t visit on a Monday, because most things in Cologne are closed on Mondays!

Where to Stay in Cologne

Book a room at Ruby Ella Cologne.

It’s a modern, clean and very fun hotel that’s right in the middle of everything!

It’s very well priced for the location, but just don’t expect large rooms. Also, the bathroom is teeny tiny!

Read my full review of Ruby Ella Cologne here.

Day 1 in Cologne

9am – Breakfast at Balthasar

Balthasar (no, not the same as the London & NY Balthazar) is hailed as one of the best breakfast spots in Cologne, and I could see why from the moment I entered and saw the dishes on the tables.

I ordered a side of scrambled eggs with mushrooms (for the protein), and the blueberry pancake…and what I got was a humungous, thick pancake filled with fresh, juicy cooked blueberries.

It was delicious and one of the best pancakes I’ve ever had.

The staff were lovely and the restaurant has both internal dining and seating outside.

10:30am – Melatenfriedhof / Melaten Cemetery

This is a strange one, but hear me out.

The Melatenfriedhof is actually Cologne’s oldest cemetery, but German cemeteries are very different to those in the UK or USA.

German cemeteries are more like beautiful parks, and each gravestone has its own little garden around it that’s lovingly cared for.

The cemetery is also the burial place of the famous Farina family (more on them later though), and is a tranquil spot to just wander and stop to look at the gardens and trees, and admire the huge sculpture-like graves of Cologne’s wealthiest residents.

I’ve never seen a cemetery so beautiful and highly recommend a visit.

11:30 – Explore Cologne’s History

Get the tram from Melaten to Rudolfplatz, and stop at Hahnentor. Built in the 13th century, this historical gate used to provide western access to the city of Cologne in medieval ages.

Walk through the gate, and head up towards Neumarkt – take a mental note of what it looks like, as you’ll need to draw on this later. Continue on to Kolumba, an art museum located on the site of the former St. Kolumba church.

Next you’ll want to walk to the 4711 shop & exhibition.

Now, there’s a bit of dispute about which perfumery created the very first ‘Cologne’ – 4711, or Farina.

Although 4711’s marketing has always been far better, it was actually Farina who came first – in 1709 – and is the worlds oldest fragrance company, whose Eau de Cologne was a favourite of many of the European royals.

You can visit both perfume shops, and the 4711 shop has a lovely little exhibiton upstairs which takes you through their history.

A short five-minute walk away is the grand building of Farina. The more luxurious of the two, the shop feels very European and the scent is far more flowery than 4711.

I was also obsessed with this fountain opposite Farina. The figures dancing together made my romantic heart swoon!

Just round the corner from the Farina shop is the Alter Markt, Cologne’s Old Market.

Sadly the majority of Cologne was bombed and absolutely obliterated during WW2, with very few buildings standing by the end, but the city rebuilt some of its oldest buildings and so the Old Market has some very pretty architecture among the more brutalist 1950s style buildings.

Even now, they’re still rebuilding, with the Rathaus (town hall) finished earlier this year after an extensive renovation.

Right by the river is also the old fish market, a small square featuring colorful old houses, a fountain & outdoor cafes, and the church of St Martin.

13:00 – Lunch at Haxenhaus

Haxenhaus is a beer hall right on the river.

I really, really loved the food and location, and the wait staff were very friendly – I know the Germans don’t have the best reputation when it comes to friendliness with tourists, but if you speak a little German with them it makes a really big difference.

Fortunately I did GCSE German and somehow I still remembered some of it? I managed to go my entire time in Cologne only speaking German, with zero English. It’s funny how when you’re in that situation it suddenly comes flooding back to you!

(btw, I ate *a lot* of potatoes, sausage and sauerkraut while I was in Cologne!)

15:00 – TimeRide Experience

Y’all. The TimeRide was probably my favourite experience in Cologne. Like, I actually cried.

I think it was slightly more meaningful to me because my family are from there, so this experience meant I was able to actually see Cologne as they would have seen it.

It felt as though I was actually there in that time period, it really was like time travel.

It’s essentially a virtual reality (VR) ‘ride’, where you sit on an old tram in a little museum with a VR headset on, and the VR takes you around Cologne on a tram in the 1920s, before it was destroyed in WW2.

It’s absolutely fascinating to see what Cologne looked like before it was destroyed – it was SO beautiful and looked very similar to Paris!

I was in absolute awe.

Now, remember when I told you to take a mental note of what Neumarkt looks like?

This is when you’ll need that mental note, because you’ll see what it looked like in 1926 and the difference is astounding!!

Book the Cologne 1926  TimeRide Experience here.

16:00 – Strudel at Cafe Reichard

After the TimeRide experience, walk round the corner to Cafe Reichard.

Running from the same location since 1905, it overlooks the cathedral and does the most amazing strudels!

Treat yourself to a strudel swimming in delicious thick custard (or you can ask for it without custard!) while you stare up at the beautiful cathedral, or sit inside in the traditional tea room next to their in-house chocolate and sweet shop.

16:30 – Cologne Cathedral

Now, it’s time to finally visit Cologne Cathedral! My great-great grandfather was a violinist, and the family story is that he played the violin in Cologne Cathedral, so I was super excited to finally visit!

Honestly, I walked into the Cathedral and my jaw dropped.

I wasn’t expecting it to be so huge, and so impressive! Photos don’t do it justice at all, nor do they truly convey how high it is!

It was overwhelmingly beautiful, and I think knowing the history makes it even more impressive.

You see, they started building it in 1248 to house the relics of The Three Kings (aka, the Three Wise Men), but it wasn’t completed to its original Medieval plan until 1880.

How insane is that!? A crane actually stood on top of the cathedral for over 300 years – from 1511 until 1868!

The cathedral was operational throughout that time, it was just the towers that were missing as the builders ran out of money and large Medieval cathedrals went out of style.

Work finally re-started to complete it in 1814, and it became the world’s tallest building for ten years between 1880-1890.

Walk around the cathedral and towards the back of the building you’re able to see the relics (the bones) of The Three Kings housed in the reliquary.

You can also see a variety of architectural features from throughout the time period of the build – there are stained glass windows from the 1500s, 1800s, and 2000s, and the most incredible mosaic flooring.

You’ll also notice that the exterior sandstone is black. Originally the stone was the typical pale beige sandstone colour, but acid rain has been causing it to turn black for decades.

When I visited there was a patch on the outside that had the cleaned sandstone – you can see from the photo above the difference between the clean sandstone on the left, and the damaged, dirty sandstone on the right!

You’ll also notice if you visit, that there’s always some sort of scaffolding on the cathedral…this is because they have to constantly clean and renew the stones.

If you’re Catholic, there are services throughout the day and evening.

I went to an evening mass the day I arrived and it was really, really beautiful, and felt really special going to mass somewhere where my great-great grandparents  also worshipped.

19:30 – Dinner at Früh am Dom

For an authentic taste of Cologne, you NEED to head to Früh am Dom, one of Cologne’s oldest breweries, and enjoy a traditional Kölsch beer with their hearty local dishes, like sausages and sauerkraut.

The beer hall is over 100 years old and feels as though you’re stepping back in time.

I loved the beer-marinaded Pork Knuckle followed by a chunky piece of apple strudel for dessert.

Cologne is really famous for its beer and beer halls – it’s the only city that’s permitted to brew its famous Kölsch beer – and they’ll keep bringing you more beer until you place your beer mat on top of the glass!

They’ll then take the beer mat and work out what your bill is, as they make a mark on the mat each time they bring you a beer.

Kölsch is traditionally served by a waiter (called Köbes) in a typical cylindrical Kölsch glass that only holds 0.2 l.

The Köbes behaviour is unique, and in other places you might consider their behaviour rude, but in Cologne’s brewery restaurants it’s part of the city’s unique culture.

Their manner is part of the traditional brewery restaurant experience, so try not to be too baffled by the way they serve you!

I actually don’t even drink or enjoy beer normally, but I did try a beer at four different beer houses in Cologne, so I was quite proud of myself!

21:00 – Beer at Peters Brauhaus

After Früh am Dom, walk round the corner to Peters Brauhaus to try a Peters Kölsch under their stunning stained glass ceiling. Part of the fun of visiting Cologne is seeing how many of the different Kölsch you can try while you’re there!

Watch my Cologne vlog!

Day 2 in Cologne

9am: Breakfast at Kaffeesaurus

Now, Kaffeesaurus was one of my favourite foodie places in Cologne! Handily, it was right by my hotel, the Ruby Ella Cologne, and was so cute you guys!!

It’s very well priced, and I loved their breakfast choices, especially their iced tea and avocado and poached eggs on toast (what can I say, I’m a predictable gal).

10:00am: Explore Agnesviertel

After breakfast head over to Agnesviertel. Now, this isn’t a typical touristy area, it’s very much a residential area.

However, it’s absolutely beautiful and it wasn’t bombed as heavily as the rest of Cologne, so features a lot more historic and older buildings with large, tree lined avenues.

Visit the Church of St. Agnes, and then go next door to Keiserlich for a gelato.

There are some cute boutique shops and cafes around the square that St Agnes is on, and you can walk round the corner to Cologne City Courthouse (Oberlandesgericht Köln) and Fort X, where there’s a pretty rose garden (rosengarten) and small park.

12:00: Visit EL-DE Haus

You can’t visit Germany without learning more about the Nazi atrocities against the Jewish people. EL-DE Haus is the former headquarters of the Gestapo, and has since been turned into a museum documenting the Third Reich.

Walking into the building, all the hairs on my body stood on end.

I later found out that the basements of the building had been used as prison cells and torture rooms for forced labourers and political enemies, and the building was the site of multiple executions and deaths.

Inscriptions made on the walls of the prison cells by inmates can still be viewed today.

Unfortunately all of the information signs and boards inside the museum are in German only, with no English translated version available.

I could make out some of them, but others I had to use my phone to use Google Lens to translate them for me. So I would definitely use one of the audioguides if you can – they have them available in English, French, Spanish, Polish, Russian and German, but they run for 3.5 hours…and honestly my attention span isn’t that long lol, no matter what the subject is.

The museum is open Tuesday to Friday 10am to 6pm, and 11am to 6pm on Saturday and Sunday. It’s closed on Mondays. A ticket costs just 4,50 €.

13:30: Lunch at Funkhaus

After the museum walk over to Funkhaus, which is right by the Ludwig Museum (your next stop), for a quick, light lunch. It’s an upmarket cafeteria that’s well-priced but has lots of delicious food & drink options!

14:30: Ludwig Museum

The Ludwig Museum was one of my favourite places in Cologne, and it’s right next to the cathedral.

Their contemporary art collection, showcasing works by renowned artists including Picasso and Warhol, is incredible!

I could easily have spent hours in there just wandering around and soaking it all up – and I’m not even a huge contemporary art fan usually.

Tickets are just 11 euros for adults, and the museum is open Tues­day to Sun­day 10am to 6pm.

Like everywhere else in Cologne, it’s closed on Mondays.

16:00: Schokoladenmuseum

I sadly didn’t have time to visit the famous Schokoladenmuseum, as I went out to the Cologne Archives instead to do some family research. But next time I’m in Cologne I am definitely making the time to go here!

Indulge your sweet tooth and explore the history of chocolate-making at this interactive museum. And of course don’t forget to enjoy the chocolate treats at the end!

19:30: Dinner at Brauerei Päffgen

Brauerei Päffgen actually ended up being my favourite beer house in Cologne.

It’s located on Friesenstraße near Friesenplatz, so it was just round the corner from my hotel, and I really enjoyed their beer, and loved their food!!

Päffgen- Kölsch is one of Cologne’s most famous Kölsch, and has been in the same position since 1884!

Although it was badly damaged in WW2, some of it survived, and they rebuilt the damaged parts and reopened in 1949.

21:00: Drinks at Wilma Wunder Köln

After dinner at Päffgen, walk 30-seconds down the road to Wilma Wunder Köln, for incredible cocktails and the very best people watching!!

I loved sipping on a Hugo Spritz on their terrace and watching everyone walking by. There’s also a really cute interior bar if the weather’s bad.

Extra time? Take a boat trip!

If you have some extra time or a half day either side of the two days, you can take a leisurely boat ride along the Rhine River to witness the cityscape from a different perspective.

The evening cruises offer breathtaking views as the sun sets over the city.

Top Tips for Traveling in Cologne

• KölnCard: Consider getting a KölnCard for free public transportation and discounts on various attractions, making exploring the city more convenient.
• Language: German is the primary language, and I found that only a handful of locals I encountered in Cologne spoke English. Learning a few basic German phrases and requests will go a long way in enhancing your experience –  my 5-years of German lessons came in very handy! My top language tip: ignore what Google Translate says and do not use ‘ich möchte’ as it’s actually very rude and is similar to us saying ‘I want’ in English, and instead use ‘ich hätte gerne’ (I would like to have…), which is far more polite.
• Cash vs. Cards: Cash is the preferred option in Germany, and credit and debit cards are not commonly used at all. In fact, a lot of places – even large bars or restaurants – do not accept cards at all. Make sure you take enough cash to cover the majority of your expenses.
• Public Transport: Cologne boasts an efficient public transportation system. Trams, buses, and trains can take you anywhere you want to go in the city. The public transport is quicker than cars, so try out the U-bahn instead of calling an Uber.
• Respect Local Customs: Remember to greet with a friendly “Guten Tag” and always wait for the green pedestrian signal before crossing the street – Germans get very upset if you jaywalk or walk before it’s turned green. In fact, if there are any rules in place, always make sure you stick to them.
• Safety: Cologne is generally safe for travelers, but as with any destination, be mindful of your belongings and stay aware of your surroundings, especially in crowded areas. There is a large unhoused population, and like the rest of Germany there is a much larger issue with drug use than in the UK, which has led to a rise in unhoused people with extreme mental health issues.

A Perfect Weekend in Cologne

Cologne’s unique blend of history, culture, and modern vibrancy makes it a destination that’s bound to captivate your heart, just like it did mine. There’s so much to see and do, and visiting all the beer halls was sooo much fun!

I hadn’t been to Germany since I was 15 so I also really loved getting to try out my German again.

It really was the perfect weekend, and next time I go I’d love to visit for their famous Carnivale!

Safe travels and viel Spaß im Köln!